Kaj pa distančniki le za zimsko varianto, tist minimum ki bi odmaknil platišče od čerljusti.NoFEAR napisal/-a:Evo, dans so ble čeljusti zmontirane (hvala Subi) in po nekaj malega začetnih testiranjih, lahko rečem da zadeva (že zdej, ko še ni ulaufano) bremza vsaj 50% bolš kukr tiste dvobatne zadevščne k so ble prej gor. Se je splačalo zapravit teh 300€
Zdej pa v lov za feltnami za zimake...
Moj forester turbo (SF)
Evo, Bob je poslal graf... To je to. 
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8397 ... rester.png
Še lista modifikacij:
Turbina: TD04
Benc. pumpa: Walbro 255
Izpuh: H&S turboback full decat
Zračni filter: Green panelni
Ostalo: Samco cevi, Svečke PFR7B, Magnecor kabli, štiribatne zavorne čeljusti...
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8397 ... rester.png
Še lista modifikacij:
Turbina: TD04
Benc. pumpa: Walbro 255
Izpuh: H&S turboback full decat
Zračni filter: Green panelni
Ostalo: Samco cevi, Svečke PFR7B, Magnecor kabli, štiribatne zavorne čeljusti...
Turbina Mitshubisi TD04-njen maximum je v kombinaciji z pravimi injektorji cca 310 KM ,je identična kot v mojem saabuNoFEAR napisal/-a:Evo, Bob je poslal graf... To je to.
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8397 ... rester.png
Še lista modifikacij:
Turbina: TD04
Benc. pumpa: Walbro 255
Izpuh: H&S turboback full decat
Zračni filter: Green panelni
Ostalo: Samco cevi, Svečke PFR7B, Magnecor kabli, štiribatne zavorne čeljusti...
Ne vem če je čisto enaka. Med temi TD04 turbinami je kr nekaj različnih modelov...
Pri Foresterju se maksimum pri TD04 ustavi tam okoli 280KM, če hočeš preko 300 je treba zamenjat za TD05, al pa še boljš za VF35. Za doseganje maksimuma konjev v kombinaciji s turbino niso važni samo injektorji, so tud druge stvari v igri (npr. odmične gredi,...)
Pri Foresterju se maksimum pri TD04 ustavi tam okoli 280KM, če hočeš preko 300 je treba zamenjat za TD05, al pa še boljš za VF35. Za doseganje maksimuma konjev v kombinaciji s turbino niso važni samo injektorji, so tud druge stvari v igri (npr. odmične gredi,...)
glede motorjev pri subaruju me zanima nekaj stvari za katere upam da jih kdo pozna 
1.kje je limit motorja brez menjave batov?
2.ali obstajajo programi za stopnje,npr stage 1,stage2 itd
bistvo povečanja izkoristka motorja je da je izgorevanje vedno v pravem razmerju in da toplota ki hitreje nastaja in v večjih količinah pri friziranju ima možnost da se hitreje odvede
1.kje je limit motorja brez menjave batov?
2.ali obstajajo programi za stopnje,npr stage 1,stage2 itd
bistvo povečanja izkoristka motorja je da je izgorevanje vedno v pravem razmerju in da toplota ki hitreje nastaja in v večjih količinah pri friziranju ima možnost da se hitreje odvede
This is an attempt to map out a path to power up for single turbo EJ20T powered Liberty's and is written due to the many 'how can I make my car faster' type questions.
This topic is concentrating solely on straight line performance.
Stage 1
Starting with a completely stock car - about 90 kw's ATW's
Ending up with 140kw's ATW's
Step 1; Freeing up intake and exhaust.
1.Resonant snorkel assembly removal- its free and easy.
Located in RHF guard. Remove guard liner to access.
This has been found to be the biggest restriction on intake.
2.Standard air filter - LEAVE IT! Just make sure it is clean.
If dirty replace with another stock air filter - RYCO etc.
3.Pre-turbo resonator
Replace this. Several option available
MRT - they have one but it is about $100.
Forum member Jason Micheluzzi makes these as well
Link to thread
4. Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Basically a tube that collects cold air from the front of the car and feeds it into the air box where the Resonant snorkel assembly used to connect to the air box.
Interesting article covering all the above;
http://www.autospeed.com/A_1605/cms/article.html
5.Exhaust.
Depending on funds, this can either be done in one hit or in 2 stages with the end result being a 3 inch turbo back system.
With the 2 stage, first replace from the first flange to the rear then replace the stock 'Dump pipe'
Cost here can vary greatly depending on wether you go for new or 2nd hand. Should expect between $600 and $2,000.
Step 2; MORE BOOST!
The proper way to do this is with an inteceptor chip.
You achieve not only more boost, but also a better ignition and fuel map.
Or
Bleed valve.
It is a worthwhile precaution when increasing the boost to fit an aftermarket fuel pump at the same time.
Wahlbro and Bosch are the 2 favourites. 400-500hp rated pump is the go.
Also, with the age of the stock 2 bolts coils it is a good idea to upgrade to 4 x Bosch HEC 716 coils (about $200 including necessary plug leads)
Tole vela za legacy-ja turbo ......se prav ,da kej prov pride tut za forija
This topic is concentrating solely on straight line performance.
Stage 1
Starting with a completely stock car - about 90 kw's ATW's
Ending up with 140kw's ATW's
Step 1; Freeing up intake and exhaust.
1.Resonant snorkel assembly removal- its free and easy.
Located in RHF guard. Remove guard liner to access.
This has been found to be the biggest restriction on intake.
2.Standard air filter - LEAVE IT! Just make sure it is clean.
If dirty replace with another stock air filter - RYCO etc.
3.Pre-turbo resonator
Replace this. Several option available
MRT - they have one but it is about $100.
Forum member Jason Micheluzzi makes these as well
Link to thread
4. Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Basically a tube that collects cold air from the front of the car and feeds it into the air box where the Resonant snorkel assembly used to connect to the air box.
Interesting article covering all the above;
http://www.autospeed.com/A_1605/cms/article.html
5.Exhaust.
Depending on funds, this can either be done in one hit or in 2 stages with the end result being a 3 inch turbo back system.
With the 2 stage, first replace from the first flange to the rear then replace the stock 'Dump pipe'
Cost here can vary greatly depending on wether you go for new or 2nd hand. Should expect between $600 and $2,000.
Step 2; MORE BOOST!
The proper way to do this is with an inteceptor chip.
You achieve not only more boost, but also a better ignition and fuel map.
Or
Bleed valve.
It is a worthwhile precaution when increasing the boost to fit an aftermarket fuel pump at the same time.
Wahlbro and Bosch are the 2 favourites. 400-500hp rated pump is the go.
Also, with the age of the stock 2 bolts coils it is a good idea to upgrade to 4 x Bosch HEC 716 coils (about $200 including necessary plug leads)
Tole vela za legacy-ja turbo ......se prav ,da kej prov pride tut za forija
Stage 2
Ok, you've got about 140kw's ATW's.
To move to the next step properly you will need an aftermarket ECU running things.
Standard ECU and it's ability to only run the stock 380cc injectors limits you to about 160kw's MAX and this would not be an ideal setup.
So which ECU to get......
When selecting an ECU cost is not the only major considersation.
The saying goes "Your ECU is only as good as the tuner that worked on it"
So you need to find a local performance shop and see what ECU's they like to tune with.
Options include;
Link
Autronic
Haltech
Microtech
MoTeC
and so on.
With the ECU fitted and tuned you should expect to see around 160kw's ATW's whilst still running the 380cc injectors and stock turbo.
At the same time as the new ECU is being fitted, fuel delivery should be improved.
A move to parrallel fuel rail feed with rising rate regulator is the go.
That way the car can be tuning with the new improved fuel supply.
By now you are pushing the limits of the stock TMIC and a FMIC is the next item on the cards.
A 600x300x76mm cooler can be had for $400 these days and piping can cost between $300-$1,500 depending on what you choose and who you choose to do the work.
In my opinion, the metal you use, the thickness of the core and the statistics on pressure drop across a FMIC are of little consequence at the power levels we are dealing with.
So I believe it is best to apply the 'KISS' principle......
Next logical step is bigger injectors
Your choice here depends on what you are striving for with your car.
440cc's are good for around 180-200kw's
550cc's will do up to about 200-230kw's
Now I'm not saying you couldn't get more power than what I have suggested from these injectors, it is more to do with their duty cycle.
Is it better to have a set of 440cc flat out trying to make 190kw's or some 550cc's getting 190 with room to spare?
With injectors and Aftermarket ECU fitted, your next limitation is the turbo
It's at this point where there is so many options it's daunting.
But one way to look at it is how far can you go with the stock motor.
I believe that about 200kw's ATW's is about the most I'd want to push the stock motor.
Even at this level your motor's lifespan will be greatly reduced compared to it living out its days in stock form.
The risk of engine failure is real and should be taken into consideration.
So with 200kw's as the max power target for the time being, there is no point going out and getting a 700HP garrett.
You should be aiming for a turbo that on a 2lt motor can reach 200kw's at under 20psi.
You also want to minimise lag as much as possible.
Turbo options to get you in the 200kw's ATW's area with an EJ20T include;
VF 22/23and 34.
VF 34/P20
TD05H-20G
APS SR30
more to come
again, feel free to pm me if you disagree with me on any of the above, or if you wish to give some feedback.
I actually had quite a few positive pm's in response to Stage 1 and I thank those who took the time to give me some feedback.
Ok, you've got about 140kw's ATW's.
To move to the next step properly you will need an aftermarket ECU running things.
Standard ECU and it's ability to only run the stock 380cc injectors limits you to about 160kw's MAX and this would not be an ideal setup.
So which ECU to get......
When selecting an ECU cost is not the only major considersation.
The saying goes "Your ECU is only as good as the tuner that worked on it"
So you need to find a local performance shop and see what ECU's they like to tune with.
Options include;
Link
Autronic
Haltech
Microtech
MoTeC
and so on.
With the ECU fitted and tuned you should expect to see around 160kw's ATW's whilst still running the 380cc injectors and stock turbo.
At the same time as the new ECU is being fitted, fuel delivery should be improved.
A move to parrallel fuel rail feed with rising rate regulator is the go.
That way the car can be tuning with the new improved fuel supply.
By now you are pushing the limits of the stock TMIC and a FMIC is the next item on the cards.
A 600x300x76mm cooler can be had for $400 these days and piping can cost between $300-$1,500 depending on what you choose and who you choose to do the work.
In my opinion, the metal you use, the thickness of the core and the statistics on pressure drop across a FMIC are of little consequence at the power levels we are dealing with.
So I believe it is best to apply the 'KISS' principle......
Next logical step is bigger injectors
Your choice here depends on what you are striving for with your car.
440cc's are good for around 180-200kw's
550cc's will do up to about 200-230kw's
Now I'm not saying you couldn't get more power than what I have suggested from these injectors, it is more to do with their duty cycle.
Is it better to have a set of 440cc flat out trying to make 190kw's or some 550cc's getting 190 with room to spare?
With injectors and Aftermarket ECU fitted, your next limitation is the turbo
It's at this point where there is so many options it's daunting.
But one way to look at it is how far can you go with the stock motor.
I believe that about 200kw's ATW's is about the most I'd want to push the stock motor.
Even at this level your motor's lifespan will be greatly reduced compared to it living out its days in stock form.
The risk of engine failure is real and should be taken into consideration.
So with 200kw's as the max power target for the time being, there is no point going out and getting a 700HP garrett.
You should be aiming for a turbo that on a 2lt motor can reach 200kw's at under 20psi.
You also want to minimise lag as much as possible.
Turbo options to get you in the 200kw's ATW's area with an EJ20T include;
VF 22/23and 34.
VF 34/P20
TD05H-20G
APS SR30
more to come
again, feel free to pm me if you disagree with me on any of the above, or if you wish to give some feedback.
I actually had quite a few positive pm's in response to Stage 1 and I thank those who took the time to give me some feedback.
Se zahvaljujem za posredovane podatke
osnovo motorja od saab-a poznam dobro,slabosti in prednosti,a ker sem se odloču za prestop na subaruja me zanima nekaj stvari,katere bo pa treba skozi prakso spoznat
subaru kar se motorja tiče se veliko razlikuje od saab a,kjer z konkretnim posegom lahko prideš do safe 450 KM za cca 100.000 kilometrov.
a kjer je volja se najde pot in največji problem vidim v programu in podatkih,ostalo se da vse predelat in dodelat kar thomas 22 dobr ve
osnovo motorja od saab-a poznam dobro,slabosti in prednosti,a ker sem se odloču za prestop na subaruja me zanima nekaj stvari,katere bo pa treba skozi prakso spoznat
subaru kar se motorja tiče se veliko razlikuje od saab a,kjer z konkretnim posegom lahko prideš do safe 450 KM za cca 100.000 kilometrov.
a kjer je volja se najde pot in največji problem vidim v programu in podatkih,ostalo se da vse predelat in dodelat kar thomas 22 dobr ve
Kdo je na strani
Po forumu brska: 0 registriranih uporabnikov in 1 gost